Now that I have finished installing my auxiliary fuse panel it is on to the next winter project, auxiliary lights. Again there are a lot of light options on the market with various power outputs and mounting scenarios for my bike the BMW F800ST. The www.f800riders.org website offers many threads on this subject. It was funny not much has been said on the forum about the Micro-Flooter which I selected :o)
Here is the website for the Micro-Flooter lights if anyone is interested. http://www.wunderlichamerica.com They make a variety of quality accessories for several BMW models. The parent company is in Germany and the US distributor is in Watsonville, CA
I guess I should start by telling you what my expectation were. I wanted lights that would illuminate the sides and give my bike a pyramid light effect for on coming traffic. Halogens were fine and 55w was generally the norm. I wanted them placed low with a clean mounting solution. This was the only low mount that was mounted on the sides of the body fairing. Aesthetics were important and have a modern style complimenting the German design ethic. I threw a bit of a curve in the project and that was I wanted to use an OEM BMW style switch instead of the one provided.

The kit
It was well packed shipping box and inner box… It came complete with wiring harness, switch, two lights, mounting brackets, light cages and enough fasteners and wire ties to complete the job. The instructions were good. Lights came with brackets on them and you would not use them, hmmm interesting.
Disassembling the bike. This video does a great job describing how to removing the body panels before you begin the installation. I believe this video was created by the founders of www.f800riders.org so kudos to them for sharing this information.
Mounting
The mounting is straightforward unless you have installed sliders on your bike. If you have sliders then you have to do some modification. First you will need to cut two of the slider mounting collars to the thickness of the auxiliary light bracket because the brackets mount to the same place on the chassis. This will ensure your slider mounting brackets will mount evenly with the addition of the light brackets. You have to do this on both sides of the bike.

On the right side of the bike you will need to do some filing on the light bracket for clearance around one of the slider mount collars so the light bracket will have enough clearance to mount properly.

There are two more areas you will need to custom fit. The bottom light bracket ties into one mount point the body panel uses too. It is not a flush fit so you will need to cut a spacer to fill the area between the light bracket and faring. The instructions called out for foam tape to be used but honestly it wasn’t even close to filling the gap.

The final mod is to the switch bracket. You mount the switch to a screw holding other controls on the handlebars. Well the bracket holes don’t line up so you need to file the side of the bracket down in order to line up the holes. After you do that you will also need to cut a small spacer so you will get a good secure fit when re-tightening the mount screw. Yes I ended up using the supplied switch that came with the kit DOH!!!!! @#$%^&*

Everything else fits per instructions.
Wiring
The supplied wiring harness is straightforward too. But as I told you in the beginning I wanted to use an OEM BMW style switch. To make a long story short I was not able to get the switch to work correctly. I tried every bloody combination to get the switch to work. I am sure I am missing something beyond me. It was really frustrating and I finally bailed on the idea (I might revisit this later after I calm myself down)

I resorted back to the switch that came with the kit. It was a relief to actually get the lights to work with a switch. The instructions wanted to tap into a hot wire that was “switched” on the bike. So only power would be supplied to the lights if the bike was running. BMW’s use an electronic brain thingy called a Canbus and you have to be aware of where you can tap into the switched wires so as not to screw with the Canbus protocols. The instructions called out tapping a positive running light wire in the headlight assembly but I resorted to tapping into the GPS adaptor that came with my bike. I ordered the male connector from the dealer.

It comes with open-ended wires you can tap into. So now I have to rave about this product line… it is called Posi-Lock. This is a great system to quickly splice and un-splice lines when you are working out your wire harness connections. Here is their website http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html . They worked great. Here is another suggestions. Get your wiring sorted and working first. Then go back and get your routing figured out the way you want. Then size and cut all the wires for a neat final application. I used the posi-locks on everything. Remember I will try again to get the OEM switch to work.

Well that is it… Any installation you will always need stuff, like the right tools, sometimes-additional parts and some creative thinking and patience. But hey that is why we do it for the satisfaction of patting ourselves on the back and saying “Good Job”